I use all kinds of lines. Yes, I primarily use fluorocarbon level lines and most of my lines are clear however, some of my favorite tenkara lines are tapered nylon. Other great choices are furled lines and the first line I used to learn tenkara was a lite fly line cut to length. At one time or another, I've used just about all the line type available. As I develop further, the different types of tenkara that I do (keiryu and honryu tenkara) I tend to choose a couple of different line types for specific types of streams and rivers. Yes, primarily I use a #3.5 line, if I had to choose one, that would be it but over the years, I have developed a systematic approach toward crafting lines for my type of technique.
Sunline, Fujino and Nissin make the lines I use. Seaguar makes the conventional tackle fluorocarbon line that I create my favorite lines from. Seaguar InvizX in 15lb is the equivalent size of a #3.5 tenkara line. I cut a piece to length and add in a stepped downsize of fluorocarbon and then a tippet ring to terminate my line. This system helps presentation by making a lighter end line that transfers the energy easier as it loses energy. It also helps with accuracy and is a smaller presentation to the target fish I am going for. Thats the basic concept of my favorite line. I might use a Nissin Oni in PINK with a clear fluorocarbon tip or a different type of fluorocarbon main line suggested to me such as Seaguar Tatsu by a suggestion from Dr. Worthing.
In the past, I might have made a line before I went fishing but that is not the case now. I have a trio of rods that I use for ALL of my tenkara. Rod lengths from 3m to 5m divided by 50 cm lengths with overlap. With my line storage system, I can easily travel and be prepared for all of my tenkara.
I use a wooden spool in the bag I carry. I keep the spool in my bag to stow the line when I am hiking and or moving with the rod nested. I also use it for any rod that I am using at the time. The line storage system allows me to choose a type and length of line, my wooden spool lets me store it as I move to and from the stream.
This is the totality of my tenkara system. I do the homework, put it all together and take it on the road. It is much better than figuring it out each time I go fishing. I choose a rod first, line length second and away I go.
"Tenkara is a game and you play the game by the rules you decide. Eiji Yamakawa"
If I travel with a couple of rods, I take the line storage system with me to choose lines from. Again, the wooden spool is what I use for the days fishing.
In my fishing bag, I have a spare line stored on a card spool as a backup. Again this is a pre made line in the configuration above longer than any line I would use on stream. I choose a backup that long in case I am using a 4.5m rod or a 2.4m rod. I can cut this backup line to the length needed. All of my tenkara rods are based on the ability to cast a #3.5 level line so that back up line can be used for any of my tenkara rods.
The line storage boxes I use are inexpensive and available from general online retailers. I did not purchase them from a tenkara specific store. I use a hair tie to hold the lines on the spools and a black marker to designate the line type.
If you are still reading, below is a list of other line articles that I have written that might be interest for you.
This is the box and materials I use to create my genryu, honryu and keiryu lines for tenkara. The box sits on my bench organized and I use it all the time throughout the years of my tenkara practice.
Check it out!
Where the magic is created, my line making box
Cheap Plano box, I rescued this one out of the trash. You don't need a fancy box, just one that works.
Top shelf, this tray lifts out, my travel kit is on the right side
The top drawer comes out to expose the storage area below.
I keep line material in the bottom
Each spool represents either an era of my tenkara or is a part of my current tenkara lines that I use.
Tools of the trade
I dedicate space for each tool I use. The drawer is divided, I could reach in and know where something is blindfolded. It's not necessary to do, it just came out that way. I could take out the drawer and dump everything in the big compartment but I enjoy the organization.
More things, useful inserts I keep for further reference
I also use the box for my fly rod line rigging. I kept some things from a long time ago when I quit fly fishing. Now I am fly rodding again, I really missed it. I don't do it much, but blah blah blah, this is a tenkara web site.
Tools and stickers, I found my rod labels, lost for some time under the product inserts
I found my rod labels! They were under some of the inserts. I have tore my shop apart looking for them. Thank you for causing me to write this piece, I found them.
My travel rigging kit, most used tools in my tenkara rigging
This is at the heart of my Line Box, my little rod repair and rigging box. This thing rocks! it is about 12 years old and I use it hard.
That's a piece of sand paper in a plastick ziplock
My little swan scissors were a little hard to find
The contents of the box have evolved a bit as I learned more and more rigging techniques.
Some of the components in this kit are about 40 years old
Each component has a specific use. The needle holder on the cotter pin is 40 years old. It is out of a Chouinard Expidition Sewing Kit. I used to carry this in the harness of my hang glider. It has been on some fantastic flights with me. I use it to splice tapered fluorocarbon knotless tapered leaders directly into the braided core of floating line. I always have a variety of sewing needles. Sewing machine needles are perfect for making lines and adding in tippet rings.
A simple Plano box and a velcro tie from REI
Cheap but bombproof container. The Velcro strap prevents the contents from spilling out.
You learn how to put it all back after using it so much
You learn to put everything back in it's place after using the kit so much.
My honryu lines, I also make keiryu lines from these two, InvizX is my favorite
The Seaguar InvizX is THE stealth level line. I learned about InvizX a long time ago from John Vetterli, he knows his rigging. I use InvizX for all of my tenkara, it works beautifully because of it's handling qualities i.e. it is soft yet strong and holds knots well.
My favorite color tenkara line, the #3.5 is the sweet spot
My favorite color tenkara line. I like it a little bit more than the Pink Oni line.
When I craft lines, I use this material at the end of my lines to make a "leader" with a tippet ring
All of my tenkara lines, even my InvizX lines get stepped down a size with this material. I sometimes use 70cm to 1m of line terminated in a tippet ring. This does many things, so many that I've been using it for years and this stuff alone is responsible for more fish caught.
My second favorite but not second best, probably the best level line, really, not really
Without fail, I learned so much about level line tenkara from this line. It is EXCELLENT. I highly suggest that if you haven't used it, try it. I use the #3.5 the most. Somewhere in my kit is always a spare line of the #3.5. It is the #1 choice for level line even though I use the FC above.
Secret #2 from American experts conversations, sent to me to try
Experts talk to each other, this is what we talk about. Yes, it works, no it doesn't work everywhere.
I often trade secrets with my tenkara friends
David Walker and I often passed back and forth equipment suggestions. I mis him so much.
Notes from David Walker, I miss him very much (RIP)
Page two
If I think about this too much I will tear up. I really really miss his presence in the tenkara community.
If I am using a conventional Level Line, this is my choice. It is super visible and is good for teaching my new tenkara friends how to see strikes by watching the action and or drape of the line. It handles well and straightens easily. I use it with a clear tip knotted in and terminate that with a tippet ring.
If you like visible Level Lines that are soft and easy to work with, this is a line to consider.
I also use Nissin Oni in pink however, I like this line a little more for its color.
Sunline Long Cast Fluorocarbon Tapered clear lines are wonderfully casting lines. They are similar to a Western fly rod knotless tapered leader except, this line is 8 meters long! You can cut it to length for any of your tenkara rods. There are two "gauges" of line, a #4.5 and a 3.5 which corresponds with the weight of Level Line.
These lines are clear and stealthy. If you are used to colored lines, nothing to see here, move along. But if you are already using or transitioning to a clear line system, and you want a line that casts nicely, then this is a line for you to consider. It won't cast for you or make you a better caster, what it will do is enhance the skill and technique in your cast as the tip of the line is tapered and will smoothly deliver the energy in your cast to your fly or kebari.
If you are a Western Fly Fisher transitioning to tenkara, then this may be your line as you already have used knotless clear leaders, and this is just an extension of that type of line end.
I like a stealthy long level line made of clear premium fluorocarbon however, this line promotes accuracy a little more than level line as it delivers the energy at the end of the cast better. I also like the performance in manipulation as the smaller tip transitions away from the larger level section farther than a level line to tippet.
I initially found out about this line from Chris Stewart but he no longer carries the line, Keiichi at TenkaraYa can get it for you no problem.
I use this line and it works very well.
I recommend it for those of you who want to improve your tenkara and you are already at an advanced level.
My line spool, from Sansui in Tokyo, #3.5 5.5m, 70cm #3 clear tip to tippet ring.
In designing a level line for my rod, I have quite a bit of experience behind me researching all the different tenkara "schools" in Japan. After a lot of experimentation, I landed in the level line camp and have been designing lines for all my tenkara rods this way. I think it will be fun to look back where I have been to get to where I am at in my craft.
My first custom tenkara line, a 00-weight fly line back end cut to length
In 2009, Daniel Galhardo started his company, Tenkara USA and I gave him a call and we decided on a rod for me. He told me which lines he sold and we decided on a furled taper line which I initially used but really didn't like it. Chris Stewart (of TenkaraBum) was selling custom lines for Tenkara USA rods and I bought a couple, I think it was my first level line. I gave those level lines a workout but it was so strange compared to a fly rod, I could not feel the rod load and I much preferred my cut 00-weight fly line. I used my floating fly line for the first year until I found out about the Japanese and their rich history of tenkara. I approached Sakura and they made me the North American distributor. I started fishing their unique braided tapered lines matched with the Seki Rei and Kongo.
Various furled and braided tapered lines
My interest in researching Japanese tenkara all types of lines took me to the different schools. I immediately took to the school of Kazuya Shimoda and his cut floating fly lines. He had many videos and Shimoda san is one of the heavy influencers of my early tenkara. Continuing my search, I started conversing with Eiji Yamakawa and he introduced me to the multi-strand custom made tenkara lines that were from the school of Hiromichi Fuji.
I built a line furling machine and began to construct my own custom made step down taper tenkara lines. More often than not, the type of line used was what differentiated the teachers. Tenkara anglers outside of Japan by and large are not aware that within Japan, there was so many different types of lines used.
Further into my interests, I learned about Hisao Ishigaki and his tenkara; he was teaching by using a level line for his style of tenkara. His approach to using the attributes of a tenkara rod for casting a fly/kebari was more to my style. It took me time to be able to feel the rod load with a light level line, I was so used to a heavier fly line but after a few weeks, I really liked it. And besides, you can quickly make a level line and be fishing in a few minutes, it takes very little rigging.
Multi strand furled lines from Yuzo Sebata and Eiji Yamakawa's Hiromichi Fuji style lines
It was a complete education in learning all the different lines used in Japan. More often than not, the type of line was all that differentiated the tenkara angler. Much of my Japanese tenkara library had dedicated sections on "how to make" your own custom lines. My favorite Japanese author, Soseki Yamamoto introduced me to a young Yuzo Sebata and the custom multi strand lines that he made and used in his area. Later, I was introduced to Sebata-san by Keiichi Okushi and even Okushi san had his own tenkara line secret.
At the time of my second visit to Japan in 2016, I had settled on to a level line configuration that had all the qualities that I wanted. I took those lines to Japan where several experts checked out my rod and line combination to their approval, "Adam san, this is a nicely balanced system." I developed my lines to what I wanted in my fishing. The Japanese didn't configure or use some of the materials that I used. In comparison, my fish count was in line with what they were doing in thin, clear and difficult streams.
I will share with you, the method that I use to create my own level type.
Level lines promote the attributes of a tenkara rod. Attributes being the ability to cast a very light line which is a plus for a stealthy presentation. A light line will not splash, if presented correctly, only the fly will light on the water surface or punch through the meniscus. There is no line slapping on the water running towards the fly to announce it's presence. When cast at distance, a light level line will allow very little "drape" or sag. When you can not see the fish take the fly/kebari, the line becomes an indicator and telegraphs the feel to the angler. The line is important to the system and should be created with assisting you in catching fish, not just to deliver the fly/kebari.
There are a few terms and line types that you should know when you are making a line or talking about them with your friends.
The lillian is the little hollow braided string on the tip of the tenkara rod.
A slip knot is used on a level line to attach to the lillian. The lillian wrapping through the slip knot loop twice before tightening.
To join the mainline to the smaller tip section, I use a surgeons knot. It is excellent when tying two sections of line together if they are not equal in size.
The level portion of the line from the slip knot to the stopper knot or tippet ring is called the "mainline."
A stopper knot is often used to prevent the tippet from slipping off the mainline or the tip section of a level line.
There are many types of line you can use when configuring a level line.
Nylon lines are typically lighter in mass. Given the same size, nylon will present more surface area when casting and in wind. Nylon has a little more elasticity and generally floats. Clear Nylon has a higher refractive light index but it is still nearly invisible in water.
Fluorocarbon lines are heavier in mass and sink. Smaller lines can be used and presents a smaller surface area when casting and in wind. Fluorocarbon does stretch but has less elasticity and will sink slowly. Clear Fluorocarbon has a refractive light index that is closer to water rendering it close to invisible.
Braided level lines are multi-strand lines made of various materials such as dacron, kevlar and spectra. The properties of this line are all typically heavier, larger in diameter, present more surface area when casting and in wind, soak up water and become heavier, less stealthy and are more visible.
Because the level line is so small, it is easier to see when the line is colored, there are many colors to choose from when configuring a line.
I've used pink, green, orange, yellow and clear. I often fish in lush alpine streams that are low light with green foliage along the stream. A pink line is my preference for ease of seeing the line. I have also read studies that pink is a color that fades out first in water. A pink line is easy to see in low light and after using many colors, it is the color of my choice. Orange also works nicely but it is my second choice. For honryu tenkara, I choose a clear fluorocarbon for the full length of my line due to the rivers I fish are ultra clear and any odd color or color movement will distract the fish from feeding. I do not choose clear for tenkara because much of my fishing is by sight, for honryu, my fishing is primarily by feel.
The design of my level line.
For the lillian connection I use a slip knot with a .5" tag end with a knot on the end.
To join the #3.5 to the #3 clear fluorocarbon tip I use a double surgeons knot.
To add in the tippet ring I use a four turn clinch knot (not improved)
I choose fluorocarbon lines for their stealth in casting and handling qualities so I will focus on this material and the qualities of it.
Fluorocarbon level lines come in various colors and different "stiffness." I have used many colors and have found that I like pink, I can see it best against the background of my streams and I think it is the most stealthy of all the bright colors that I have used except *white. I like a relatively soft line that I can stretch and straighten out the coils to leave a line that is nearly straight. For the mainline connection to the lillian on the rod, I use a simple slip knot with a knot end tag to be able to pull and remove from the lillian when I am done fishing.
Depending on the length of the rod that I am fishing, I like a formula of 1.5 - 2m longer than the rod mainline. So once I attach the line to the lillian, if I lay the rod down, and stretch the line back towards the butt end of the handle, 1.5 - 2m of line are past or longer than the rod. At the end of the line, I use a tippet ring, a small metal ring that I tie on to the mainline.
For casting ease and accuracy, I like to use the shortest section of tippet that I can.
This is the primary reason I create a clear tip on my mainline. The smaller diameter tip also serves to transfer energy to the fly much easier for accurate casting and it also loosens up the fly for presentations as well as serving as a depth indicator.
I choose a #3, #3.5 and #4 level mainline for over all usability and I configure them with a clear tip section with 50 - 70cm of #3 fluorocarbon. The stepped down clear tip is terminated with a small tippet ring. The tippet ring is nearly invisible and imparts no detectable handling qualities on the line. It serves to attach the tippet and gives the tippet a uniform place to break if your line is stuck in a tree or on the bottom. The clear tip of the mainline also serves as a depth indicator in that I know if I have a 50cm length of tippet and the pink mainline knot is on the surface, my fly/kebari is 1m deep or away from the mainline knot. I also use that knot as an indicator. For casting, this configuration serves to deliver the greatest energy of the cast carried farther toward the fly/kebari. Using longer and over all lighter tippet lengths does not promote this accuracy, the stepped down clear tip has many attributes and mimics the gentle presentation of a tapered fly fishing leader.
This type of line configuration is durable (lasts many seasons) accurate, handles well, gives the tippet a uniform place to break, serves as a depth indicator and conserves tippet.
I have experimented with many different configurations in designing the tip end of my tenkara line. I have used heavier and lighter gauge fluorocarbon tips. A heavier section will cast nicely but is less stealthy, a lighter section serves to deliver the fly/kebari with less disturbance. I suggest trying heavier and lighter gauge fluorocarbon with longer and shorter tip sections till you find the style that casts and presents to your choosing. Start with a heavier and longer tip section and work your way shorter, then go lighter and long and trim shorter. Go beyond why you like to get a feel for the "sweet spot" in the configuration of your line.
I choose a #3.5 mainline for ease of use in all conditions.
Although I like the way a #2.5 presents a fly/kebari, I do not enjoy the way that it casts, especially at the end of a long day and more than anything, in dealing with the wind. Although a #3.5 seems to be a "heavy" gauge level line, I have found that even with the (rod length +1.5 - 2m mainline) length that I use, the drape of the line is acceptable. In short, I design my lines for "all conditions" instead of carrying additional lines for each situation.
This method has worked for me as I have filtered it through the minimalist system I use described HERE.
In using a level line, there are a couple of other little tips that I would like to weave into this article. I often use the whole line as an indicator. I will look at the drape sag for indications of movement. Whether I am working the fly/kebari or drifting a tight line, I will watch the shape of the curve for any movement that I have not imparted by the rod. I also look at the lillian for movement. Most of the time, when I can not see the fly/kebari, I am looking at the end of the pink mainline, the knot where the pink mainline joins the clear tip. I'm looking for that knot to "go down" to the water or have any movement that I have not placed on the line.
I set the hook by simply lifting the rod.
I hope at a minimum, you are able to compare your own line utility against mine.
Have fun with tenkara and most importantly, practice tenkara your way.
Early on I have created a line rigging and rod repair kit that I use extensively for all of my tenkara. This kit works well as I use it for every line I create. It also serves second duty for having a few items that I can repair a tenkara rod if I break the tip section. I am fortunate in never having broken a tenkara rod and needed to continue fishing.
Readying to tie in a tippet ring on the clear tip.
Tippet Ring on #3 clear fluorocarbon, locked knot with UV Knot Sense
* I have used a white Nylon line which I really liked the color but did not like the handling qualities.
Tenkara is the simple method of Japanese style fly fishing using a rod, line and fly. From years of researching the history of modern tenkara in Japan, I have found that the line type often differentiates the anglers method even more so than the places they fish. You have the community of anglers there but often they are only differentiated by the type of line they use. Hiromichi Fuji uses a tapered braided multi line configuration. Yuzo Sebata makes his own tapered multi strand lines (available HERE) for his style of tenkara. Dr. Hisao Ishigaki (Ishigaki sensei) uses a line that has the same diameter (Level Line) the whole length constructed as a woven level line. Kazuya Shimoda popularized custom making a floating line from PVC fly lines.
I know more than a few tenkara experts in Japan that use fly line backing for their "secret lines" which is the reason for this page. Making your own line is a tenkara skill that many people overlook because of marketing.
Manufactures picked up on the lines that the experts were using and marketed them for sale but in essence, the original tenkara experts constructed their own lines for the style of tenkara they developed.
Many of the different lines are made from materials that are readily available. If you can not afford the lines on the market place or you want to custom make one yourself, please do. This is how tenkara got started, anglers rigging their own equipment to suit their style in casting.
I recently made the line above for a 5m single hand rod that I am using. It cast very well. The line is limp, no memory and it casts even better when it has wetted out on the tip. It casts like a weight forward level line which is what it becomes with the tip wet. It is readily available in different thickness to custom tailor your line to the rod you are using.
As time allows, I will add in the backing type lines that I have made in the past and lines that I create in the future.
I use Fujino Straight Line on my favorite rods and have caught many fish of all sizes with it. I also use it in a variety of applications, in ponds and lakes and also tenkara in mountain streams. It's a versatile line capable of the lightest and most sensitive presentations. It rivals single strand lines while it is a braided line, a totally different construction than a typical fluorocarbon level line.
Dr. Ishigaki designed the line and it works really well for sub surface presentations. The construction appears to be some sort of spectra or kevlar. This line is very tough, almost like gel spun backing but a little different. What ever it is made of, it is strong, limp and has no memory, perfect for casting tight loops.
As with most lines, preparing them for fishing is a quick process of straightening coils and stretching the line. With this line, all you have to do is to attach it to the lillian, unspool, rig and cast. It is super limp, no memory. No running it through your fingers, no stretching it out before using it. It doesn't coil or knot up when you break off the tippet unsticking your line from the trees. The construction of it is braided, not furled or twisted, it just breaks the knot and it is ready to rig once it is free.
Indicator tip removed and Stonfo tippet ring tied directly on to the line.
Fujino Straight Line suspends well. It is not heavy like a multi strand line that lays on the water. It suspends at length and I use the 5m line with 3.9m and 4m+ rods. For the Furaibo (zoom), I cut the braided end off the line. The Furaibo is 3.9m rod stretched out and I like a line that is 1.5m longer than the rod. Cutting off the braided tip gives me a line closer to 4.9m and add in a 50cm tippet and there is my formula, a rod with +1.5m line.
To rig the line, I add in a tippet ring. The Fujino Straight Line is comes with a stopper knot. Adding in a tippet ring does not degrade the performance of this line, it just gives it a nice connection (termination) without a kink and a uniform place for the tippet attachment knot to break off while protecting the rod. It's interesting, I've had many people cast and catch fish on my lines, all with tippet rings, and when I tell them the line has a tippet ring, they couldn't tell.
Stonfo Tippet Ring tied into the petite braided indicator tip
I also fish one of these lines almost stock, again, I just tie in a tippet ring on the braided indicator tip. It is clean and petite.
The reason why I am writing this endorsement is simple, I enjoy the line and use it quite a bit. I buy mine from Keiichi Okushi at Tenkaraya if you are interested. I think your favorite vendor may also carry them too.
I like the tactility, it transmits well. I sometimes use tungsten beads on my kebari and I can feel it dragging along the bottom, hesitating at a rock, loading the line slightly and crawling up a rock, releasing and over the rock, I can feel that. I can feel the subtle take of a small fish and it's tail fluttering. It just might be more tactile at transmitting than a fluorocarbon level line.
I like Ishigaki-sensei approach with tenkara. He does a great job at promoting level line. If you don't know, historically, Dr. Ishigaki is the leader of level line promotion in Japan. When tenkara started to become sport decades ago, much of the community at that time used other types of multi strand lines. Hisao Ishigaki is the guy who turned a lot of people on to "Level Line" style of equipment and technique. Fujino Straight line is a very light braided line with a straight profile it's entire length, same as the fluorocarbon level lines as we use today. Dr. Ishigaki developed this line to accentuate the attributes of the level line single strand techniques he originated.
Fujino Straight Line is light and durable, it handles well, is strong, limp (no memory) and is sensitive, it also rigs nicely. I've used one regularly for two years and it is durable. I think it is an excellent line that competes within the class of single strand fluorocarbon lines. It is relatively inexpensive and with it's durability, it is more than sustainable. It makes sense and I really like it.
For those of you following along, below you will find the Fujino company links and also Christophe' Laurent's "Tenkara Enso" blog. I have read a couple of reviews on the Fujino lines and Chrisophe' and I seem to agree closely, our styles of tenkara are similar.
For the TF39TA, choosing a line that will work in a variety of conditions, I'll use a #3.5 or a #4. Trying to fit a 5.5m line on a 3.3m rod in tight quarters just won't work so I'll take the liberty to use a couple of different length lines and I will use a couple of different gauge lines to figure out which line I like that works with the rod.
I fish wide open streams where a 4-5m class rod is fine and also in tunnel streams tight with vegetation, casting under the first limbs of pines where a 3.3m rod will seem long.
Details of Each Line
I’ll primarily use a #3.5 or a #4 at 5.5m most of the time for my 4-4.5m class streams. This is also useable in wind and will cast a variety of kebari and fly sizes. I like my lines slightly long to not crowd the tip when landing big fish. I also tend to stand back and it’s the sweet spot length at rod length plus 1.5m (or there about.)
For the rod at 3.9m length I’ll carry the following lines.
#4 at 5.5m on my primary spool, that’s the everyday “one line” for the “one rod” I will use another #4 at 5.5m as a back up and a #3.5 at 5m as I want to see if I can get away with a shorter and a little lighter line. For the short length I made the following line, a #3.5 at 3.3m for tight streams. I enjoy using lines over and over often for more than a season and I am working to get to the point where my whole kit is like this.
Line Configuration
I use a slip knot at the lillian, double surgeons knot at the mainline to clear tip section that I add in and a 4 wrap clinch knot at the tippet ring to finish my mainline.
The material I use is fluorocarbon in pink and in clear for the spliced in tip on the end creating the mainline. I also use tippet rings to keep things uniform in length and as a weak link when protecting the rod on big fish fights or in fly in the tree break offs.
For tippet I use premium .8 which is equivalent to 5x I have not found the trout in the streams where I fish to be tippet shy when using premium fluorocarbon and I use the strongest I can all the time so I carry just one spool.
On each mainline I tie in a 50c length of #3 clear fluorocarbon. I then terminate that with a tippet ring. I do a lot of gauging with that clear tip in the water, the end of the pink line and knowing the length of the clear tip, the lighter tip loosens up the fly in a “stepped down” method and the extra length of the clear tip assists in stealth in clear shallow and still streams, this clear mainline tip helps me to catch more fish.
For all my knots, I use “Knotsense” to lock them, I cure the coated knots with a UV light.
This line configuration is strong, will handle wind and still drape well. The clear tip aids in stealth and the tippet ring keeps things uniform. I make my lines at home where I can take my time to create a line I want.
After all my lines are made, I wrap them on a card spool and stack them, locking them together and stuff them into the little bag I use to carry my kebari, flys, needle driver and bits I use for tenkara.
As I get better at tenkara, I use fewer things and at this point, many years later, my sub compact system reflects that. I’m learning by using what works, taking away what I don’t use, focusing on things that can serve double duty. I allow myself to use my knowledge in rigging to create a line system that will back itself up and enhance versatility in my choices.
Yamamoto Soseki was well known to Japanese tenkara fishers. He introduced tenkara to mountain-stream anglers through his many books and articles. Based on one of his articles of a fishing magazine (Ancestry of Tenkara, The cutting edge of mountain stream fishing 1988, page 68-73, published by Weekly Fishing Sunday), this report has been prepared to introduce Soseki’s tenkara technique and various tenkara techniques in different districts in Japan. Although that article is a bit old, I think this report provides you with some interesting information on Soseki and many types of tenkara techniques.
Twenty years ago, when the above-referenced article was published, every mountain-stream angler knows that “tenkara” is a name of a technique for fishing mountain-stream fish with a fly. However, just twenty to thirty years before that time, tenkara was a fishing technique that was performed only in limited districts and had been handed on from one generation to another in respective districts by only a limited number of people. The fishing technique and the name for tenkara had a large variety among those districts. This variety will be described latter.
Tenkara in Kiso
Tenkara had long handed on in Kiso district in Nagano Prefecture since old times. Its techniques and fly patterns were well known as an orthodox mainstream of tenkara. The fly patterns in Kiso had the collectively theorized components for practical use to fish amago, which was called “tanabita” in that district.
Dr. Sugimoto, who ran an internal medical clinic in Fukushima in Kiso, was Soseki’s master of tenkara. After Soseki learned tenkara by Dr. Sugimoto’s book, he visited him to have his face-to-face training. It was summer in 1964.
According to the technique of traditional tenkara there, they fished the mid deep to near surface region with a fly immersed in the water, and it was very difficult technique especially to beginners. That technique was all the same as bait fishing except using a fly instead of a real bait. The most difficult point is in how to detect a fish bite. You needed to have a good skill to hook a fish upon a glance at a fish turning around in the water.
Why had that difficult technique been handed on? In those days, it was practical to immerse a fly in water. There were two reasons for that: first, a natural material fishing line looks so transparent in water that it is difficult for fish to find it; second, a natural material fishing line has unevenness in thickness, and the water prevents as a cushion the fishing line from breaking due to an instantaneous large force when hooking a big fish.
When a nylon fishing line was put on the market, it replaced the conventional natural material fishing line. It was light, strong, and chemically stable.
On response to the emerge of the nylon fishing line, Dr. Sugimoto conceived a new tenkara technique, improving the traditional tenkara technique.
His new technique had two major features. One was to lure a fish out to the surface and to hook it there. This thrilling technique was created owing to a fine but strong nylon tippet. The other was a simple style of fly. In the water, an unsophisticated fly is easily found out to be an artificial bait, and therefore, a fly has to look like a real bait. However, on the surface, fantastic flies have the following advantage.
With this new technique, a fly is shown off to fish through a bail of the water. The fish sees upwardly the fly though water from deep in the water, in other words the fish looks toward the bright place from the dark place. In the morning and evening, the situation is especially enhanced, thus a fantastic fly is more effective.
Dr. Sugimoto focused on this point and came up with a fly only having a simple hackle and body, setting up the “Wing Vein Theory” which insists that the veins of the wing are important in flies because only the veins can be seen if you see the wing of a mayfly by transmitted light.
Tenkara in Other Districts
The fishing is inherently distinctive in different districts. The same kind of fish has different names, and the fishing techniques are different. Those respective techniques have been handed on in respective districts, and tackles and fishing rigs have been locally developed, and are thus locally distinctive. However, most of the differences in techniques and tackles seem to have been lost due to printings and visual materials. Printings and visual materials such as TV help a fishing technique of some people or some district to prevail as a standard technique.
In the northern area of Tohoku (meaning “north-east”) district is the technique in which three to five flies are tied like tree branches, and the flies are dragged on the surface. This technique is called “Mosquito Fly Fishing”.
In Nikko, Gorocho fly has been well known as a fly for the mountain stream fishing, and it is famous as a pattern of fly instead of as a fishing technique. As the name of the fly implies, this fly is made similar to a gorocho (a dialect word representing an adult aquatic insect of some kind).
The features of mountain stream fish especially iwanas depend on the rivers where they live, due to a stream size, properties of water, bottom stones, vegetation in the river basin, brightness, and so on. Therefore, their feeding habits can also differ in different streams. Thus, the following situations can occur. Earth worms are effective in A river, but in B river they are not at all effective, instead aquatic insects are a must. Of aquatic insects, caddices are effective in C river, but mayflies are effective in D river. The same thing goes with flies, and we have to prepare unusual flies for rare use in addition to our favorite flies for regular use.
Regarding this troublesome issue, there are two different convincing assertions A and B, and they make this issue more troublesome. To make this difficult issue simple, let’s discuss bait as an example. Assertion A insists that the bait that the fish usually have is better, and to the contrary, assertion B insists that an unusual bait is better. You can buy either assertion. Although the two assertions are opposite to each other, both can make sense and are persuasive to unconfident anglers.
The same thing goes with flies, and thus you have trouble to decide what kind of pattern to use. The best pattern depends on uncertain conditions such as weather and water level in addition to the aforementioned constant conditions such as properties of water, bottom stones, and vegetation of the river bank, which relates to the kind of bait inhabiting there. In this regard, you can learn a lot from the visual features of traditional flies that have locally long been handed on. From this point of view, Gorocho Fly is distinctive in Nikko district.
In Yamanashi Prefecture is a technique called Taiko (meaning “drum”) Fishing. The reason why it is called by that name is that an angler changes points while drumming the water surface with a fly. It is quite an exciting technique. A fly is not shown to fish for a long time, instead it is repeatedly shown for a very short time to confuse the eyes of a fish. After showing off the fly that way, the fly is presented on the water for the fish to bite. Such a manipulation of fly reminds us of an image of a dragonfly dipping its tail in the water to lay eggs.
In the southern part of Kyusyu Island is a technique that is totally opposite to Taiko Fishing in Yamanashi Prefecture. In this district, yamame is called madara (meaning “spotty”) or enoha (meaning “leaf of nettle tree”), and there is a tenkara technique called Hashirakashi (meaning “to sweep quickly”). The presented fly is manipulated so as to scratch the water surface quickly.
In Shidara County in Aichi Prefecture is a tenkara, which has long been handed on. That tenkara is basically the same as Kiso tenkara, but Kiso tenkara is thought to be older.
In Fukui Prefecture is also a tenkara technique, and Soseki actually saw this technique in the Itoshiro River in 1965. The angler was old and nearly blind due to cataract but waded very lightly, jumping from one stone to another while casting at short intervals. His line system is the same as that of Kiso tenkara. He casted and picked up after he presented a fly and counted “one, two, three”. With this technique, a fish is most likely to bite the fly at the moment the angler counts “three”. It was a repetition of counting “one, two, three” and not very exiting, but the angler caught far more fish than Soseki, Soseki was a beginner at that time, though.
In Totsukawa Village is a bit different technique. It is a technique using a level line. It is called Tobashi (meaning “casting”) and has been performed by forestry work workers. The line system employs a 10lb to 14lb nylon line and about one meter of a thinner tippet tied to the end of the level line. In addition, an ear of a dead pampas grass is tied on at the upper part. Its weight helps casting, and it works as an indicator as well.
Mr. Takekabu in Owase City has taken over this orthodox technique of the level line tenkara and is developing the technique. His technique is better to be called Takekabu Style than to be called level line tenkara. His level line is eight to ten meters long, which is much longer than typical level lines. He can easily cast this long line without any indicator or weight.
The tapered line is easy to cast due to its tapered shape, but a long level line needs more skill and more physical strength to cast. The reason he still sticks to his style is that hooking rate is very high with his style. Judging from Soseki’s experience, you can hook typically seven out of ten fish but miss three fish. However, Takekabu Style is said to hook all the ten fish.
Why there is such a difference? It is because you can stay away from the spot owing to that long line, and a fly can be presented on the water surface naturally enough. However, it is not good for bushy small streams, and in addition you have to have a good eye sight.
Deep Mino and Hida district is a Sakasa Kebari. Since its hackle is tied in the opposite direction to normal flies, and it looks like swimming in the water when the line is tensioned.
Is Tenkara Difficult?
Tenkara has long been said to be difficult, and Soseki believed the same way at first. But through his experience, twenty years for bait fishing and another twenty years for tenkara, he said tenkara was simpler and easier.
